Rooted & Radical: Redefining African Fashion at South African Menswear Week

This season at South African Menswear Week, the runway was not just a stage but a space for cultural and personal storytelling, and unapologetic reinvention. Two standout designers, Ezokhetho and Ruan Goosen, offered very different, yet similarly powerful, visions of what African menswear is becoming: expressive, rooted, and unafraid to challenge old definitions. At Trendsetters Only we celebrate fashion as both clothing and storytelling, and so we are proud to spotlight these designers as they shape a new narrative for African style. 

For Ezokhetho, this season in particular marks a poignant shift. Known for their intricate storytelling and strong ties to South African identity, the brand debuted its very first menswear line, and it did not disappoint. The collection, titled Zodwa, is a tribute to the designer’s late parents and the enduring connection they share. “Zodwa was my father’s nickname for my mother,” explains Lele Dhlamini, founder and creative director of the brand. “Through this collection, I wanted to honor their story - one that unfolded during the transformative decades of the '80s and '90s.”

This emotional foundation is dressed in velvet, faux ostrich leather, sculptural mesh, and knits. Each fabric was chosen for its texture, memory, and boldness. The show opened with A cream knit bodysuit, which is a reference to inkomazi (sour milk), a nostalgic household staple across South Africa. And recurring throughout the show, was the brand’s signature chicken foot motif; a symbol of shared heritage, resilience, and cultural pride.

Though rooted in memory, Ezokhetho’s vision is still fiercely contemporary. “Tradition and innovation aren't opposites - they're collaborators,” says Dhlamini. Their mission is clear; to make African-inspired fashion wearable, relatable, and real for the modern man. “Why should something that reflects your roots only be worn on Heritage Day?”

Ezokhetho’s menswear debut is not just a new product line, it’s a statement of purpose. Each piece carries the weight of memory, love, and community, offering men clothing that feels both personal and powerful. By centering everyday South African experiences and reframing traditional symbols for modern life, the brand is reshaping menswear into something expressive, rooted, and unmistakably local

Similarly redefining african menswear is Ruan Goosen, who’s eponymous brand lit up the runway with a collection that was equal parts rebellion and romance. “It’s a love letter to the glamour of the ’70s and ’80s, but filtered through modern South African eyes,” Goosen explains. With glossy textures, sheer layers, and bold shades of gold and cerise pink, the collection embodied the confidence, sensuality, and fluid expression that define South African creativity for the brand

The tailoring is sharp, structured and confident but is often subverted with vinyl shorts or draped satin gowns, blurring the lines of masculinity and femininity. “I’m fascinated by the tension between structure and softness,” Goosen says. “African menswear isn’t about proving ourselves anymore — we are the conversation.”

He partnered with ROWDY Bags and Italtan Leather to create accessories that reflect a global-local fusion, echoing a new generation of African design: luxurious, brave, and unbound by geography.

Goosen's message to international audiences is crystal clear: African fashion is not a moment but a movement. “I want people to feel power, romance, reinvention when they wear my pieces,” he says. “That’s a message anyone, anywhere, can connect with.”

Both Ezokhetho and Ruan Goosen are reshaping African menswear; one through emotional heritage, the other through visual rebellion. And both are making bold statements: African fashion is personal, powerful, and global in its reach.

Credits Ezokhetho:

Creative Director: @leledhlamini

Stylist: @thobekambane

Assistant: @lebojwa_

Photographer: Rogers Ouma (@rogersouuma)

Models: @_axelyed @zoe77robb